FAQs

What's the right way to acclimate a new fish or coral to my tank?

Float the sealed bag in your tank for about 15-20 minutes to match temperature, then gradually add small amounts of your tank water into the bag every few minutes over 30-60 minutes to let the animal adjust to your water chemistry. Never pour the bag water itself into your tank, since it can carry ammonia or disease from transport. Coral generally needs a similar drip or gradual-mix approach, especially for sensitive SPS species.

Why is my tank water cloudy?

Cloudy water is usually caused by one of a few things: a bacterial bloom during early cycling (white/gray haze), leftover dust from new substrate or rock (usually clears within a day or two), or overfeeding and excess waste. Persistent cloudiness after the first few weeks is worth investigating with a full water test, since it can signal a filtration or bioload issue.

How long should I let a new tank cycle before adding fish?

A fishless cycle typically takes 4 to 6 weeks, though it can run faster or slower depending on temperature, the ammonia source, and whether you seed the tank with established filter media or bacteria. Testing ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate is the only reliable way to know a cycle is complete — you're looking for ammonia and nitrite to both read zero, with nitrate present.

How much should I feed my fish, and how often?

A general guideline is to feed only what fish can fully consume within 2-3 minutes, once or twice a day. Overfeeding is one of the most common beginner mistakes and leads to excess waste, algae growth, and water quality problems. Different species have different needs, so it's worth researching feeding habits for the specific fish and inverts in your tank.

What's the difference between a fish-only tank and a reef tank?

A fish-only tank is set up purely to house fish, usually with simpler lighting and filtration since there's no coral to support. A reef tank includes live coral, which requires stronger and more specific lighting, more stable water parameters, and typically more consistent maintenance. Many saltwater keepers start fish-only (or fish-only-with-live-rock) before adding coral.

Do you offer in-home aquarium maintenance service?

Yes — we've offered professional aquarium maintenance since 1991, with weekly, bi-weekly, or monthly plans for both freshwater and saltwater tanks, including reef systems. We also handle tank setups, moves, and rebuilds. Service is available from Fort Lauderdale to the Florida Keys, with a possible travel fee for locations farther from Miami.

How long has Strictly Fish been in business?

Strictly Fish has been serving the Miami reefing and fishkeeping community since 1991.

What size will my fish, frag, or coral piece actually be?

Listed sizes are approximate, since livestock is a natural product and individual pieces vary. Fish are generally sized by length, while coral frags and colonies are sized by the coral tissue itself, not the mounting plug or base rock. If exact sizing matters for your setup, feel free to contact us before ordering.

Why did my fish die shortly after I brought it home?

This is most often caused by a mismatch between the water conditions at the store and at home, or by stress from transport and a new environment. Rapid changes in temperature, pH, or salinity, skipping acclimation, or adding a fish to a tank that hasn't finished cycling are the most common culprits. Slow, careful acclimation and confirming your tank's parameters match the store's as closely as possible both help reduce this risk.

What is the nitrogen cycle, and why does it matter for a new aquarium?

The nitrogen cycle is the process by which beneficial bacteria colonize your tank and convert toxic fish waste (ammonia) into nitrite, then into much less harmful nitrate. Until this bacterial colony is established, ammonia and nitrite can spike to levels that stress or kill fish and invertebrates. This is why a brand-new tank needs to "cycle" before it can safely hold a full livestock load.

How do I know if a fish or invertebrate is reef-safe?

"Reef-safe" means a species is unlikely to harm coral or other invertebrates in your tank, but it's rarely absolute — individual animals can behave differently, and a well-fed reef-safe fish is far less likely to pick at coral than a hungry one. Before adding anything to a reef tank, research the specific species' typical behavior around coral and inverts, and keep an eye on new additions for the first few weeks.

Does your staff speak Spanish?

Yes — our team is comfortable assisting customers in both English and Spanish.

Can staff help me pick out fish or coral, or troubleshoot a problem with my tank?

Yes — our team is happy to walk through stocking questions, compatibility, or a tank issue you're trying to figure out, whether you're just starting out or you've been in the hobby for years. Feel free to call ahead or bring photos/details of your tank when you visit if you want more specific input.

How often should I test my water, and what should I test for?

During the first few months of a new tank, test weekly for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH. Once a tank is established and stable, testing every 1-2 weeks is usually enough, with more frequent testing after any major change — new livestock, a dosing adjustment, or a filtration issue. Saltwater and reef tanks also benefit from regular salinity, calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium checks.

Why can't I just add a fish to my cart and check out like I can with corals?

Fish listings on our site are informational — they show what we typically carry, but live availability and pricing can change daily, and fish aren't shipped. Call or visit the store to check what's currently in stock and available to take home. Corals and dry goods, on the other hand, can be ordered directly online and shipped.

Why does my saltwater fish's color look duller than it did at the store?

Color changes after moving a fish home are usually caused by stress from transport and adjusting to a new environment, and often improve within a few days to a couple of weeks as the fish settles in. Diet also plays a role — some fish need specific foods to maintain vibrant coloration long-term. Persistent, worsening dullness alongside other symptoms can indicate illness and is worth monitoring closely.

How much water flow does a saltwater tank need?

Flow needs vary by tank type: fish-only tanks generally need enough flow for filtration and gas exchange, while reef tanks — especially those with SPS coral — typically need much higher, more turbulent flow to mimic reef conditions and prevent detritus buildup on coral. As a rough guide, many reef keepers aim for total flow around 20-40x the tank's volume per hour, though this varies by coral type and tank shape.

What's the difference between a fish-only-with-live-rock (FOWLR) tank and a full reef tank?

A FOWLR tank uses live rock for biological filtration and a more natural look, but doesn't include coral, which means lighting and parameter stability requirements are more relaxed. A full reef tank adds coral on top of that foundation, which raises the bar for lighting intensity, flow, and consistency in calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium levels.

What causes ich (white spot disease) in saltwater fish, and how is it treated?

Marine ich is caused by a parasite that attaches to fish and appears as small white spots on the skin and fins. It's often triggered or worsened by stress, such as from a recent transport or sudden water parameter changes. Treatment typically involves a dedicated hospital/quarantine tank with medication or a hyposalinity protocol, since most ich treatments aren't safe to use in a display tank with coral or invertebrates.

What's the difference between live rock and dry rock?

Live rock is porous rock that already carries a population of beneficial bacteria and often small hitchhiking organisms, which can jump-start your tank's nitrogen cycle. Dry rock is the same type of rock without an established biological population — it's cheaper and carries less risk of unwanted pests, but takes longer to "seed" with bacteria before it functions the same way live rock does.

Can I mix different fish species together in a saltwater tank?

Many saltwater species can be mixed successfully, but compatibility depends on temperament, size, and territorial behavior — for example, most tangs and angelfish do best one per species per tank to avoid aggression. Researching adult size, territorial needs, and known aggression issues before adding a new fish is the best way to avoid conflicts down the line.

What is a protein skimmer, and do I need one?

A protein skimmer removes dissolved organic waste from the water before it breaks down into ammonia, which helps keep water quality more stable, especially in heavily stocked or reef tanks. It's not strictly required on every saltwater setup, but it's considered standard equipment on most reef tanks and larger fish-only systems because of how much it reduces the maintenance burden.

Why do saltwater fish need a quarantine period before going into my main tank?

Quarantining new fish in a separate tank for 2-4 weeks lets you watch for signs of disease or parasites before they can spread to your established livestock. It also gives a stressed fish a lower-competition environment to recover in before being introduced to tankmates. Skipping quarantine is one of the most common ways hobbyists accidentally introduce disease into an otherwise healthy tank.

Why is my saltwater tank's salinity important, and what should it be?

Salinity affects how fish and invertebrates regulate water and minerals in their bodies, so sudden swings can cause serious stress. Most saltwater fish-only tanks are kept around 1.020-1.025 specific gravity, while reef tanks are typically kept closer to natural seawater at 1.025-1.026. Consistency matters more than hitting an exact number — sudden changes are more dangerous than a stable reading slightly outside the ideal range.

What's the ideal temperature range for a saltwater aquarium?

Most saltwater fish and coral do well between 76-80°F (24-27°C), with stability being more important than hitting an exact number. A reliable heater and, in warmer climates, sometimes a chiller or fan system helps keep temperature swings to a minimum, since rapid changes stress both fish and coral.

What is coral aggression, and how do I prevent it?

Many corals compete for space using sweeper tentacles, chemical warfare, or direct stinging cells, which can damage or kill neighboring coral that's placed too close. Leaving adequate spacing between different coral species and researching known aggressive species before placement are the best ways to avoid this in a mixed reef tank.

What is coral bleaching, and what causes it?

Bleaching happens when a coral expels the symbiotic algae living in its tissue, usually in response to stress from factors like temperature swings, lighting changes, or poor water quality. A bleached coral loses its color and, without its algae, loses its main energy source — it can sometimes recover if the stressor is corrected quickly, but prolonged bleaching is often fatal.

Why do coral colors vary so much between what I see online and what arrives?

Coral coloration is heavily influenced by lighting spectrum and intensity, camera settings, and photo editing, so the same coral can look dramatically different under different lights or in different photos. Coral color can also shift over time as it acclimates to a new tank's specific lighting and water parameters. This is an ongoing, honest debate across the reefing community, not something unique to any one seller.

How often should I dose coral supplements like calcium and alkalinity?

Dosing frequency depends on your tank's coral bioload and how quickly it consumes these elements — lightly stocked tanks might only need weekly dosing, while heavily stocked SPS tanks often require daily dosing to keep up. Regular testing is the only reliable way to know your tank's actual consumption rate rather than guessing at a fixed schedule.

What's the difference between a coral frag and a colony?

A frag is a small, cut piece of a larger coral that has been given time to attach to a new base and grow independently. A colony is a larger, more established coral, either grown from a frag over time or collected as a mature piece. Frags are generally more affordable and let hobbyists start with smaller, more manageable pieces of a coral they want.

How long will you hold a coral for me before shipping?

Once payment is received, we can hold a coral for up to one week, unless other arrangements have been made directly with us.

What lighting do corals need to thrive?

Most coral needs a full spectrum of light including blue wavelengths, since that's what drives photosynthesis in the algae (zooxanthellae) living inside their tissue. LPS coral generally tolerates a wider range of lighting intensity, while SPS coral typically needs stronger, more intense lighting to thrive and maintain good coloration. New coral should always be acclimated slowly to a tank's lighting to avoid light shock.

Can I keep LPS and SPS corals in the same tank?

Yes, many reef tanks successfully house both, but it requires finding lighting and flow settings that work reasonably well for each, since SPS generally wants more of both than LPS needs. Placement matters too — LPS is often kept lower in the tank with less direct flow, while SPS is placed higher, closer to the light source.

What's the difference between LPS and SPS corals?

LPS (Large Polyp Stony) corals have larger, fleshier polyps and are generally more forgiving of fluctuations in water parameters and lighting, making them a common starting point for new reef keepers. SPS (Small Polyp Stony) corals have smaller polyps over a hard skeleton and typically demand more stable water chemistry, stronger lighting, and higher flow, which is why they're usually recommended for more experienced keepers.

Why is my coral not opening/extending its polyps?

Closed or retracted polyps are often a normal, temporary response to a recent move, a lighting change, or nearby disturbance, and many corals reopen within a day or two once settled. Persistent closure alongside tissue recession, unusual coloration, or a bad smell can indicate a water quality or flow issue and is worth investigating with a full parameter check.

How much does shipping cost, and what carrier do you use?

All livestock ships via FedEx Priority Overnight. Orders under $299 cost $25.00 within Florida or $40.00 out of state; orders over $299 ship free (excluding tax). Free in-store pickup is also available. We currently don't ship to Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, or outside the continental US.

Do you guarantee coral arrives alive when shipped?

Yes. Coral is double-bagged in heavy-duty poly bags, boxed with a leak-preventing liner, and shipped with a heat or ice pack based on your destination's temperature. If a coral arrives dead on arrival (DOA), email a clear photo to info@strictlyfishmiami.com within 2 hours of the delivery time on your FedEx tracking, and hold onto the specimen — we may ask you to ship it back before issuing a store credit for the coral's purchase price. Note: shipping costs aren't covered by the guarantee, a melted ice pack in transit isn't considered damage, and FedEx delays from weather or mechanical issues aren't covered.

Why did my coral shrink or recede after I added it to my tank?

Some initial shrinking or tissue recession can be a stress response to shipping and acclimation, and many corals recover once they settle into stable conditions. Ongoing or worsening recession usually points to a water quality, lighting, or flow mismatch, or in some cases aggression from a neighboring coral, and is worth troubleshooting with a full parameter check.

What's the difference between a cichlid tank and a community tank?

Cichlid tanks are typically set up around one region or type of cichlid (like African rift lake species) with water parameters, aquascaping, and tankmates chosen specifically for their needs, since many cichlids are territorial and have specific water chemistry requirements. A general community tank instead prioritizes a wider mix of peaceful, compatible species over the specialized needs of any one group.

What's the difference between a community tank and a species-only tank?

A community tank houses multiple compatible species together, chosen for similar water parameter needs and peaceful temperaments. A species-only tank is dedicated to a single species (or sometimes a single genus), often because that species is aggressive, has very specific care needs, or simply because the keeper wants to focus on breeding or observing one type of fish.

Why is my freshwater fish flashing (rubbing against objects)?

Flashing is often a sign of irritation from parasites, poor water quality, or a chemical imbalance, since fish rub against surfaces to try to relieve itchiness. A full water test is usually the first step in narrowing down the cause, since it can rule out ammonia, nitrite, or pH issues before moving on to disease-specific treatment.

Why does my freshwater fish have white spots (ich)?

Freshwater ich is caused by a parasite that shows up as small white spots on the skin, fins, and gills, and is often triggered by stress from temperature swings, poor water quality, or a recent move. It's typically treated with a combination of raised temperature, medication, and improved water quality, usually in a separate quarantine tank to avoid affecting the rest of your livestock.

What's the ideal pH for a freshwater community tank?

Most common community fish do well in a pH range of about 6.5-7.5, though specific species can have narrower preferences — for example, many South American cichlids and tetras prefer slightly acidic, softer water, while African rift lake cichlids need higher pH and harder water. Stability over time matters more than hitting a precise number, since sudden pH swings are more stressful than a stable reading slightly outside the ideal range.

Can I keep live plants with all freshwater fish?

Most community fish coexist well with live plants, but some species are known plant-eaters or diggers that will uproot or shred them — for example, many larger cichlids and some goldfish varieties are notoriously hard on live plants. Researching a species' feeding and digging habits before stocking a planted tank helps avoid this conflict.

How many fish can I safely keep in my freshwater tank?

There's no single formula that works for every situation, since bioload depends on fish size, activity level, and filtration capacity, not just tank volume. A commonly cited rough starting guideline is about 1 inch of adult fish size per gallon for small, peaceful community fish, but this should be adjusted down for larger, messier, or more active species.

How often should I do water changes in a freshwater tank?

A common baseline is a 10-25% water change weekly or every other week, though heavily stocked or larger tanks may need more frequent changes to keep nitrate and other waste products in check. Regular water testing is the best way to fine-tune this schedule to your specific tank's bioload rather than relying on a one-size-fits-all number.

What's the difference between a cleanup crew and ornamental invertebrates?

A cleanup crew refers to invertebrates like snails, hermit crabs, and certain shrimp added specifically to help control algae and detritus in a tank, chosen more for function than appearance. Ornamental invertebrates, like decorative shrimp or larger crabs, are kept primarily for their appearance or behavior, though many still provide some cleanup benefit as well.

Why did my snail or crab disappear from my tank?

Small invertebrates can hide for extended periods, especially after a molt or during the day if they're more active at night, so an apparent disappearance doesn't always mean death. If an invertebrate doesn't turn up after a thorough check (including inside rockwork and under substrate), predation by tankmates or a water quality issue are the most common explanations.

Are hermit crabs reef safe?

Most small marine hermit crab species are considered reef safe and are popular cleanup crew members, but they can occasionally bother snails for their shells or, less commonly, pick at certain coral if underfed. Keeping them well-fed and choosing appropriately sized species for your tank reduces this risk.

Can I keep shrimp and fish together?

Many peaceful, appropriately sized fish coexist fine with shrimp, but larger or more predatory fish species will readily eat shrimp, especially smaller dwarf shrimp species. Researching a specific fish species' known compatibility with shrimp before combining them is the best way to avoid losses.

Why did my shrimp molt, and is that normal?

Molting is a completely normal part of a shrimp's growth cycle, where it sheds its old exoskeleton to grow a new, larger one. It's common to find what looks like a dead shrimp (the shed exoskeleton) shortly after a molt — many keepers leave it in the tank, since shrimp often eat their old shell for the calcium and minerals it contains.

What water parameters do invertebrates need compared to fish?

Invertebrates are generally more sensitive to sudden changes in water parameters, especially salinity, pH, and copper (which is toxic to most invertebrates even in small amounts often tolerated by fish). This is why medications containing copper typically can't be used in a tank that houses invertebrates, and why extra care during acclimation matters more for inverts than for many fish.